Navy Linen Summer Jacket

This must be the most advanced thing I've made so far. It was my first foray into tailoring, and I thought I should start with an easy project. So I chose a linen unlined jacket as my first project, mistakenly thinking an unlined jacket would be easier than a lined one.

The pattern I used is Simplicity 6685, from the 60s.

It's a good enough pattern with a nice silhouette, and perfect length to wear with trousers as well as skirts. But it didn't have roll lines or two piece sleeves which I later learnt were necessary details for good quality tailoring.

After much deliberation I decided to just go for it, almost as a test to see whether tailoring is something I could get into. I was mentally ready to throw the whole thing away in case it didn't work out.

Based on the muslin, I estimated the roll line. After trying it on, I decided to follow the pattern and add another buttonholes, and raise the roll line. Surprisingly it worked out. The pattern is also for lined jacket, so I had to do a lot of research and guess work to figure out how to make it unlined.

I also finally tried my hand at bound buttonholes, which were not as complicated or difficult as I imagined. The one above was my second try, which didn't turn out too badly if I may say so myself.

One mistake I made was choosing a fabric that was too heavy and too easily frayed. As you can see on the picture above, it frayed like no man's business, and I'd find pieces of the fabric everywhere in the house, not to mention it made sewing more finicky than it could have been. 

The most critical mistake I made was deciding to finish the seam with rayon seam binding AFTER I've put all the pieces together. Man, did it make my life difficult. Well, one lives and learns.

But in the end it all worked out okay.

I finished the jacket with horn buttons that I ordered from Etsy. I love the slight texture and the weight of natural horn buttons.

I also faced the buttons because I was worried the fabric won't hold. I just used whatever small black buttons I could find at Joann.

The jacket is far from perfect, and the inside is ugly to say the least because I struggled with the rayon seam binding, but I'm very proud of the thing and I'm certain I'll get a lot of wear out of it.

So, is tailoring something I'll do more of it? Absolutely. I like the fact that it's a slow, labour intensive process, that requires mastering a wide range skills and high level of craftsmanship. And things can only get better from here. I already plan to make a tweed jacket for the winter. Next time I might even try the traditional method with hair canvas and everything.

As a note to myself, next time:

• Choose a lighter weight linen
• If doing hongkong finish or rayon seam binding, finish the seams BEFORE sewing the pieces together
• Add a self hanger loop

Here's to tailoring!